History

Written by kathy on August 23, 2008 – 5:06 pm -

How many of you have read books about the OLD WEST? We are now in a very a historical area, some places that have been mentioned are places that I am actually able to see up close and personal. Wednesday was able to ride about 4 miles on the Oregon Trail. It really makes you wonder how many of those pioneers were able to survive the trip west, because there wasn’t a lot of water along the route that we traveled. Plus, the dust, especially when the wind picked up in the afternoon, made you thirsty, and we were fortunate enough to be able to have enough to drink. I can imagine in those times that they were lucky enough to have a swallow every so often, because they had to ration it.  The soil is mostly sandy, but there was sage all over the place. I nearly tripped over a piece, when I went to check out the creek that we were camped by at Buckskin Crossing. It is a very historical place that had a marker, relating the story of the west in that area. There are lots of references in this area about John Freemont, the map maker that went with Kit Carson on some of his expeditions. There are many different trails that intersect in this area besides the CDT, the Mormon trail, the Overland Trail, and the Pony Express Route.  I was just checking these routes and came across the fact the 13,000 pioneers went through Lander cutoff, where we were on Wednesday, the 20th, it is part of the Oregon Trail, in 1859, and it was not a pretty site, because the trail was used by so many wagon trails it was covered with manure and human waste. More people died from cholera, disease, and being run over by wagons and other unfortunate mishaps than by Indians.  In Farson, a town Paul and I passed through, there was the Pony Express Museum, would have liked to see that. I was a fan of many westerns and especially enjoyed the tv show, the Young Riders that was on in the 80’s, about the Pony Express Riders at Sweet water Station and starred Steven Baldwin. Me, I always pictured myself as Lew, the girl who passed herself off as a boy, and later got found out. She was able to keep her job and later married “Kid” one of the other riders. Then the show came to an end. I think it is still on some of the cable networks.  That is the kind of crazy things I would have tried to do, if I was alive back then.  Don’t think you would find me clerking in any store, or being a schoolmarm.  More than likely would have been trying how to go on a cattle drive, or at least staying back protecting the ranch.  

The previous night we camped at South Pass City, a State Historic Site, and the trail head for the CDT, though through the brush you couldn’t see the trail. This town was restored in 1968, to how it looked a century before. This was a huge gold mining town, with the main mine was the Cariso, it survived many years of boom and busts, the last boom was following WWII, and most of the gold rushers left there following 1949.  It also had a Pony Express station in 1860-61.  It is Wyoming’s second oldest incorporated town founded in 1868.  It was also the site of WY first Masonic Lodge. I kind of wish that we could have taken a step back in time and visited the town, while the site was open. Reminds me of what Plymouth Plantation and Sturbridge Village are like in MA, where I grew up.  Or like Erie Canal Village is like up in Rome, NY, that I have never toured, but did a St. Jude’s ride out of there one year. They have quite a few interesting events, that seasonal.  The Farmer’s Museum in Cooperstown, NY, does the same thing.  Probably when you think Cooperstown, you think of the Baseball Hall of Fame, that area is one of the touristy one in NY.

I have to say besides riding the Oregon Trail, seeing the wild horses has been a highlight on the trip. Last Saturday, we saw a band of about 15 of them. They all looked to be in good health, and   looked to be around between 14.2-15 hands, kind of hard to tell from the distance. There was one foal with them.  The next Monday, I was driving along the dirt road with water for the horse, and had a chance to see a couple of different bands.  In the first one, there were 2, looked like an older horse and one around 2-3. Boy, when Soldier saw them he started screaming and carrying on. They kind of ran toward him, but then stopped and went farther out on the plains.  There was also another band farther up on the mountain in a different spot, with about 6 horses. The reason that I noticed them is because I heard what sounded like a squeal, and looked in that direction.  It looked like a couple of them were fighting, because they kept up the noise for a few more minutes.

You have all heard the phase, “where the deer and the antelope play”.  I really can’t say much about the deer playing, because didn’t there weren’t any. The antelope on the other hand, there were different groups of them everywhere, and you really had to be careful, because they would just dart out across the road.  Saturday, the 16th, there were about 10 times as many out as on the 18th.  Cotton tried to catch one, but no way, and ended up way out on the plains. Jazz, knew there was no hope, so came back to run along with Rocky.  He had to ride out and call Cotton back.  The dogs do love to get out and run, and ride in the truck.  Jazz did another stretch after lunch and tried out her new booties on the front. 

Also, we have been on the Chief Washakie Trail, it comes out of Rawlins on Route 287. He was one of the Indian Chiefs that played a major role in bringing peace between the settlers and Indians in the West.  Speaking of Rawlins here is a piece of trivia that I found interesting, while reading the Carbon County Visitors Guide, as Rawlins is the county seat .  The paint on the Brooklyn Bridge, at one time was Rawlins Red, a color created from the rock mined from the red bluffs north of the city. That one really surprised me, but I have only been down to NYC, once in my life.

Here in WY.  have seen more llamas, so it must be that people are raising them for their coats, and to use in llama trekking. I just hope we don’t run into any of them on the trail. I remember a story I read, in a horse magazine that they threw a fright into some horses that were riding by one fenced in a yard. Don’t need any rodeos. Have seen some sheep wagon along the road, the sheep must be in the mountains. At the Holy Cross Ranger Station, in CO, just before the WY border, there was a sign on the counter reminding people to be careful of the sheep dogs, because the ranchers are moving sheep and the dogs have been going after the bicyclists that are riding the CDT trail. If the rider doesn’t speak, the dog has no clue if it is a friend or foe.  The horses are afraid of them too, that is why it is always wise for the rider to speak. The same goes for hikers, so that the horses are reassured that it is nothing they should be afraid of. The bikes that were sitting at the top of the hill spooked Blackie a bit when we were riding up. There was a shine coming off one of them.  He saw that out of the corner of his eye and figured MONSTER!

We are in Pinedale, WY at the rodeo grounds. It is a nice town, population about 1500. Looks like a nice place to live. There are lots of stores, but not a big department store, hear the biggest city is a 3 hour drive. There is a store called Ridleys, that has it all from hardware, horse items ,  groceries, a gift shop, ATM, and deli.  Last night there was a roping at the rodeo grounds, and there were over 500 teams entered. Though it started about an hour later than scheduled, it was still going strong through the night. Think the PA system finally shut down about 6:30 am. It was impressive looking at all the competitors, from kids around 10, women, and men. They had food available for a donation to start a scholarship fund for a high school senior, in memory of a roper named Lance.  I didn’t catch any details on him, so can’t tell you more.  While sitting in the stands had a nice conversation with a gentleman named Tom Davenport, who lives in Cora. Rocky saw that his hat said Cora, and since he was heading in that direction, inquired about the wildlife in the area.  We really enjoyed talking to him, and exchanging stories.  Hope that you start feeling better and are back in the saddle soon. I know that you made me jealous about not being able to ride across the country you were talking about.  Sounds beautiful! Also, Tom introduced me to a roper named Shawn, who is a fellow New Yorker from the Niagara Falls area and fellow dairyman, who has moved out to Pinedale with his family and has a cabinet business.  We both joked around how we don’t miss milking cows at all. His son was also roping. I told him we are even roping in NY. Good luck to both of you in your roping competitions.

Another thing that we did yesterday was visit the Mountain Man Museum. It was a fantastic place to visit. So much history about the fur and buffalo trade, the displays were excellent.  I just wished that we are able take some pictures in the museum, but the lady there said that some of the people who donated some of the pieces didn’t want them photographed.  6 of the Rendezvous were held in the “Valley of the Green”, about 8 miles west of here. There were a total of 16 Rendezvous that were held, and 12 were in this state.  Pinedale did have their reenactment of the Rendezvous in July, the area they have it in backs up to the rodeo grounds. Fort Bridger is going to be holding theirs from Aug 29-Sept 1. There is a website to check things out www.fortbridgerrendezvous.net for those of you who may be interested.  One thing that I was interested in was the beaver it was interesting to check out their teeth, as there was one at the ranger station here in town and 2 in the museum.  There was a display on Tom Horn too whom I just read an article on in the August 2008 issue of the True West magazine, so some of you history buffs may want to check that out.  If you don’t want to buy it the website is twmag.com.  I did buy 4 books, 3 that were written for children, to enjoy the story and check out the style and one about a female rancher. Want to figure out which way I should go to start this writing thing. Have some ideas, but have to get them on paper or the computer.

We also visited the Cowboy Store here in town that had quite an inventory of tack, clothes, boots and gift items. There were some nice things, but there is only so much room in the camper. How many more clothes, pieces of tack, or knick knacks do I need?  None from what I have at home just ask my daughter. One thing that we did find is feed prices are quite high in this area, hay was $10 a bale in Rawlins for an 85 lb of mixed grass, and Omelene 200 was $18.25. We were told it was because a lot of these things have to be trucked in. Here in Pinedale paid $12 for a bale of mixed grass, but was over 100 lbs.   Have a feeling that everything is going to be high this year. Know I have heard back in NY, that good old Mother Nature is giving them rain every day, so haying hasn’t been going smooth. Well, my friend Inga found a good home for my older gelding Joe, so will only have one mouth to feed this winter. Without a horsey friend in my life, think that I would be lost because I have had one for the last 50 years. Besides without chores to do, it would be easy to become a couch potato and that isn’t something I really want to do, I like staying active, because sitting too long, makes the old muscles stiffen up.  

Well guess this is about it for now. If you have any questions or comments, would love to hear them.  I will say that this trip has had quite a few first time experiences .I have even eaten some Chinese food, once. That was more of a direct order that I had to try it. I have learned that in a Mexican restaurant    red and green aren’t Christmas colors, but chili.  Guess you could say this trip has been a growing experience in learning more about who I really am, and trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow up. Don’t hold your breath, age may be a number, but it will still be seeing things through a kid’s  eyes  and playing on the swings, and not caring that people thing I am a little “nuts”. Hey, life is for living and I plan on doing it to its fullest and enjoying every day.  You do the same, and will update again when I can. We haven’t had service for the last week, and don’t know what we will be running into this coming week.  Take care and try to stay warm, we had sunshine all week and the days were nice, but once that sun goes down it cools off quite a bit. Early mornings, about 4 am it gets cold in the camper. I know today I dug out my sleeping bag that is good to below zero, and a couple of more long sleeve shirts and turtlenecks.  Hard to believe that Labor Day is 2 weeks away, where did the time do?  Like I said earlier, enjoy the last few days of summer, even though Labor  Day isn’t the official start of fall on the calendar, it is for most people in their minds.  Goodbye for now, and keep reading about our adventures. We like hearing from you, and enjoy your comments.

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